Hey! It s me...SnakeHead.
In fact...i m a fish!!! hehe
Betta Channoides
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- Administrator
- Mesaje: 1051
- Membru din: 22 Feb 2010 21:16
- Localitate: Bucharest - Romania
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Great !
Good luck with them
Good luck with them
Membru IBC
beautiful and so funny !
Hi robertino,
congratulation that you have this nice but difficult fish. 5 years ago I breed this betta, too. when you need help or need informations, write here. do you know which location form you have?
congratulation that you have this nice but difficult fish. 5 years ago I breed this betta, too. when you need help or need informations, write here. do you know which location form you have?
Bye
Axel
Member of EHBBC, IBC & IGL
http://www.blackbetta.de
http://ctpkbreeder.blogspot.com (english)
http://bettaevents.blogster.de
Axel
Member of EHBBC, IBC & IGL
http://www.blackbetta.de
http://ctpkbreeder.blogspot.com (english)
http://bettaevents.blogster.de
- robertino
- Full Member
- Mesaje: 215
- Membru din: 09 Apr 2010 10:07
- Localitate: Bucuresti-Tineretului
- Contact:
Thank you all!
Dino, i have a question for you...the 2 channoides live together in a 35 liters aquarium. Today i bought 2 Dwarf Corydoras Panda and i have put them into the tank...from your experience, do you think that the wild bettas will be stressed by the cory s presence? For the moment the 2 channoides are pretty small, only 3 centimetres.
Dino, i have a question for you...the 2 channoides live together in a 35 liters aquarium. Today i bought 2 Dwarf Corydoras Panda and i have put them into the tank...from your experience, do you think that the wild bettas will be stressed by the cory s presence? For the moment the 2 channoides are pretty small, only 3 centimetres.
Hello robertino,robertino scrie: Thank you all!
Dino, i have a question for you...the 2 channoides live together in a 35 liters aquarium. Today i bought 2 Dwarf Corydoras Panda and i have put them into the tank...from your experience, do you think that the wild bettas will be stressed by the cory s presence? For the moment the 2 channoides are pretty small, only 3 centimetres.
I mean it is better to seperate the channoides, because the aquarium is to small for this different species.
When you want later flys you get problems with the Corydoras and the channoides will be stressed. I don´t know which location form you have. Each form has a different colour. My Betta channaoides were from Panang. I will show you how they are looking in adult status.
Bye
Axel
Member of EHBBC, IBC & IGL
http://www.blackbetta.de
http://ctpkbreeder.blogspot.com (english)
http://bettaevents.blogster.de
Axel
Member of EHBBC, IBC & IGL
http://www.blackbetta.de
http://ctpkbreeder.blogspot.com (english)
http://bettaevents.blogster.de
- robertino
- Full Member
- Mesaje: 215
- Membru din: 09 Apr 2010 10:07
- Localitate: Bucuresti-Tineretului
- Contact:
I talked to the indonesian guy i bought them from...they are around 5 months old and that means they are ready for spawning. They are original from East Borneo. Starting yesterday i saw the male becoming red like in the picture that Dino put here, normally his colors aren t so intense... i think that menas soon they will spawn.
I understood that they like iron addition, so i started adding micronutrients into the water.
I understood that they like iron addition, so i started adding micronutrients into the water.
Hi all,
This species isn't too difficult to breed if the fish are provided with the correct water conditions and diet. You'll need to organise a separate tank for the purpose unless they are already being maintained alone, setting this up as suggested above. The tank should have the tightest-fitting cover you can find (some breeders use clingfilm instead, to ensure no gaps) as the fry need access to a layer of warm, humid air. Without this the development of the labyrinth organ can be impaired.
A single pair or group of fish can be used, and feeding a varied diet containing plenty of live and frozen foods should bring them into spawning condition. It is the female that plays the more active role in both initiating courtship and defending the area against intruders. Eggs and sperm are released during a typical Anabantoid embrace in which the male wraps his body around that of the female. Several "practice" embraces may be observed before any eggs are released, in some cases several days before a genuine spawning event is seen. The female takes on a unique patterning and colouration during spawning (see image above).
Eggs are laid in small batches and are picked up in the mouth of the female before being spat out into the water for the male to catch. This process can take some time, sometimes with the pair even continuing to embrace before the female has got rid of all the eggs in her mouth. They are always collected again if the male misses them though. With this species the female tends to sit beneath the male and spit the eggs upwards into the water. Brood size is quite small, with even 10 eggs being considered a good number.
Post-spawning it is very important to give the male as much peace and quiet as possible. Males of this species are notorious for swallowing broods of eggs after a few days, especially in young fish. The chances of this happening increase greatly if the male is disturbed. For this reason most breeders leave the female in situ rather than risk unsettling the male by removing her. Apparently females will not harass the male while he is brooding. The male will tend to seek a hidden or shaded spot and will lose much of his colour during the incubation period. Even with these measures many keepers have reported that the male constantly eats the eggs after a few days, in some cases after 10 or more spawnings have occured! It is for this reason we recommend the purchase of a group as some males get the hang of things faster than others. Patience can be a virtue with this fish!
If successful the incubation period normally lasts between 10 -16 days. When ready the male will release fully-formed fry from his mouth. Once the fry are free swimming you may wish to remove the male as if the female attempts to spawn with him again too soon he may starve to death. Giving the male a recovery period and plenty of good food post-brooding is highly recommended by some breeders while others simply keep the pair together constantly. We found that this problem is significantly reduced if keeping the fish as a mixed-sex group. In our experience the fry also develop faster when reared alongside the parents until of saleable size, and with plenty of vegetative cover are fully capable of escaping predation. Some other reports suggest otherwise so you can choose to remove the adults or young if you prefer.
The fry are big enough to accept motile foods such as microworm and/or Artemia nauplii (see above notes on the feeding of Artemia to young Betta) immediately. Feed them small amounts of different foods 2 -3 times per day for the best rate of growth. Small (5 - 10% of tank volume) daily water changes can also be introduced to prevent organic wastes accumulating.
This species isn't too difficult to breed if the fish are provided with the correct water conditions and diet. You'll need to organise a separate tank for the purpose unless they are already being maintained alone, setting this up as suggested above. The tank should have the tightest-fitting cover you can find (some breeders use clingfilm instead, to ensure no gaps) as the fry need access to a layer of warm, humid air. Without this the development of the labyrinth organ can be impaired.
A single pair or group of fish can be used, and feeding a varied diet containing plenty of live and frozen foods should bring them into spawning condition. It is the female that plays the more active role in both initiating courtship and defending the area against intruders. Eggs and sperm are released during a typical Anabantoid embrace in which the male wraps his body around that of the female. Several "practice" embraces may be observed before any eggs are released, in some cases several days before a genuine spawning event is seen. The female takes on a unique patterning and colouration during spawning (see image above).
Eggs are laid in small batches and are picked up in the mouth of the female before being spat out into the water for the male to catch. This process can take some time, sometimes with the pair even continuing to embrace before the female has got rid of all the eggs in her mouth. They are always collected again if the male misses them though. With this species the female tends to sit beneath the male and spit the eggs upwards into the water. Brood size is quite small, with even 10 eggs being considered a good number.
Post-spawning it is very important to give the male as much peace and quiet as possible. Males of this species are notorious for swallowing broods of eggs after a few days, especially in young fish. The chances of this happening increase greatly if the male is disturbed. For this reason most breeders leave the female in situ rather than risk unsettling the male by removing her. Apparently females will not harass the male while he is brooding. The male will tend to seek a hidden or shaded spot and will lose much of his colour during the incubation period. Even with these measures many keepers have reported that the male constantly eats the eggs after a few days, in some cases after 10 or more spawnings have occured! It is for this reason we recommend the purchase of a group as some males get the hang of things faster than others. Patience can be a virtue with this fish!
If successful the incubation period normally lasts between 10 -16 days. When ready the male will release fully-formed fry from his mouth. Once the fry are free swimming you may wish to remove the male as if the female attempts to spawn with him again too soon he may starve to death. Giving the male a recovery period and plenty of good food post-brooding is highly recommended by some breeders while others simply keep the pair together constantly. We found that this problem is significantly reduced if keeping the fish as a mixed-sex group. In our experience the fry also develop faster when reared alongside the parents until of saleable size, and with plenty of vegetative cover are fully capable of escaping predation. Some other reports suggest otherwise so you can choose to remove the adults or young if you prefer.
The fry are big enough to accept motile foods such as microworm and/or Artemia nauplii (see above notes on the feeding of Artemia to young Betta) immediately. Feed them small amounts of different foods 2 -3 times per day for the best rate of growth. Small (5 - 10% of tank volume) daily water changes can also be introduced to prevent organic wastes accumulating.
Bye
Axel
Member of EHBBC, IBC & IGL
http://www.blackbetta.de
http://ctpkbreeder.blogspot.com (english)
http://bettaevents.blogster.de
Axel
Member of EHBBC, IBC & IGL
http://www.blackbetta.de
http://ctpkbreeder.blogspot.com (english)
http://bettaevents.blogster.de
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- Administrator
- Mesaje: 1051
- Membru din: 22 Feb 2010 21:16
- Localitate: Bucharest - Romania
- Contact:
WOW !
Real chanoides
Real chanoides
Membru IBC
Hi robertino,
nice pictures. Hope you have luck in the future with spawning.
nice pictures. Hope you have luck in the future with spawning.
Bye
Axel
Member of EHBBC, IBC & IGL
http://www.blackbetta.de
http://ctpkbreeder.blogspot.com (english)
http://bettaevents.blogster.de
Axel
Member of EHBBC, IBC & IGL
http://www.blackbetta.de
http://ctpkbreeder.blogspot.com (english)
http://bettaevents.blogster.de
- white_betta
- Jr. Member
- Mesaje: 71
- Membru din: 02 Mar 2010 17:06
- Localitate: IASI
- Contact:
Me toooo:)